Friday, June 1, 2012

Elderflower Fritters - A Tribute to my Grandmother


I have been wanting to write about my grandmother for quite some time now. She and my grandfather used to live about three hundred kilometers from where I lived back then and where I live now with my family. My grandparents used to live in a rural community, we live in the city but would love to live in the country. They owned a red brick house with a great big vegetable garden and in addition to all the vegetables and fruits that my grandmother had planted and always faithfully tended to, there was a huge elderberry shrub  growing in one of the corners of her wonderful garden. Although we have neither really found the time nor   had the patience to plant a vegetable garden, thankfully, there is a large elderberry shrub growing in our garden.




My two sisters and I usually spent three weeks during the summer at my grandparents` house. Sometimes we would even stay for a week or two in fall or around Easter time. I have nothing but fond memories of all the times that we stayed at that house. My grandmother grew up with twelve sisters and brothers. She, on the other hand, had two children, my father and my aunt. My grandmother was incredibly hard working, even as a very young girl.




When my great-grandparents considered her "to be old enough", they sent her off to the Netherlands, to another family with lots of children, so that, according to my great-grandmother, her daughter would “learn how to cook and how to ran a proper household” - I believe she could have learned a lot at home as well, but sending her away for a few years probably meant much more than just that...




By the time my grandmother was allowed to return home, she had become a wonderful cook, having dutifully studied the recipes in those vintage cookbooks that were the only resources available back then.





She baked her own breads and rolls and lots of waffles – I do not remember her baking cakes, though. She  made juice and then filled her homemade juice (such as elderberry juice) into glass bottles. She canned huge amounts of green beans, red beets and other vegetables from her garden.




She picked the sweet cheeries from her cherry tree and canned them too. Then she would line all those bottles and jars up on these old but sturdy looking wooden shelves in the cool basement – canning time was a huge event at her house, steam everywhere and at the end of a long day or two spent doing nothing but juicing and canning, my hard working grandmother always emerged from the steam, relieved and proud. To this day, I cannot walk past those canning jars in a store (or in my basement) without thinking of her.




When I think of her, I cannot believe that I do not have one, not even a single one of her original recipes. No one seems to have taken any notes. I guess, no one was interested back then.



















A few years ago we decided to take our children to the very house that my grandparents used to own. I had not seen it in a long long time – the garden was still there, the trees and the elderberry shrug too, although it is not a shrug anymore but rather a tree. The present owner runs a music store from the house, the house looked different but it also still looked the same.




During our trip we talked a lot about how absolutely happy and safe I always felt when I was around my grandparents. When I was pregnant with my first child, I was convinced that it was going to be a girl, a girl that would be named after my grandmother, her great-grandmother. It turned out that I had to be a bit more patient than I had thought and that I had to wait a few years more before I was able to pass on that very name, Klara. Our daughter Klara turned eleven in May.




So in honor of my grandmother Klara, I am posting a recipe for Elderflower Fritters – while I do not own the original recipe she used, I found an old recipe. I am sure she would have liked it, my food memories tell me that my Elderflower Fritters taste like or very similar to the ones grandma Klara used to prepare once a year. I made this recipe yesterday and everyone liked the fritters quite a bit. Writing about my grandma and trying to find a recipe that would do her cooking skills justice gave me the chance to take a trip down memory lane, again. I am endlessly grateful for all those memories...




Sources:
Some of the photos were taken by my at the Open-Air Museum in Lindlar, Germany
http://www.freilichtmuseum-lindlar.lvr.de)
Cookbook: Henriette Davidis, "Praktisches Kochbuch" - "Practical Guide to Cooking" (1906 and 1924 editions - part of my vintage cookbook collection)
Canning glass: "Weck" (http://www.weck-glas.de)



Elderflower Fritters
(Recipe in Memory of Oma Klara)


Ingredients 
(serves about four persons)
                 
125g AP (plain) flour
½ tsp baking powder
1 pinch fine sea salt
1 egg (L),  preferably free range or organic
250 ml sparkling mineral water, room temperature
4-8 heads elderflowers (or as many or as few as you want)
Oil for frying (I used sunflower oil)
Confectioners´s sugar for dusting (you could also use cinnamon sugar)




Preparation

Whisk the flour, baking powder, salt, egg and mineral water together until smooth and set aside for 30 minutes (at room temperature).
Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer to 180° C (
Using a pair of kitchen scissors, snip the elderflowers into individual florets, or leave the florets whole, leaving on as much stem as possible. Clean off any dirt or tiny critters.
Dip the florets into the batter and drop into the hot oil. Cook for 1-2 minutes, until golden brown. Remove and drain on kitchen paper.
Dust with confectioners´ sugar and enjoy while still warm.

Serve with just the dusting of sugar or serve alongside fruit or compote (like the strawberry/rhubarb compote I prepared and filled into a large Weck jar without having to use a rubber ring since we ate it right away).




Enjoy!






French Fridays with Dorie - Lentil, Lemon and Smoked Trout Salad



Today we have the „Lemon, Lentil and Tuna Salad“ on the recipe schedule for the French Fridays with Dorie group. This lentil salad is light and fresh and a perfect dish for spring and summer.




The main stars of this salad are the “lentils du Puy”, French green lentils, known in France as poor man's caviar. The particularity of these lentils is that they are all grown in Auvergne, a rugged mountainous region in the south of France. Because they are designated by an AOC (“appellation d'origine controlee”), only lentils grown near Puy-en-Velay can be labeled as Puy lentils. The word “puy” refers to an isolated volcanic hill. When looking at the Auvergne landscape, you will will notice quite a few of these “puys”.




The first task in preparing this salad is to cook the green lentils. You can do so either by preparing them according to the package instructions or by following Dorie`s basic lentil recipe in her book. I chose to take the latter route. To prepare the lentils according to Dorie´s recipe, first you briefly cook the lentils in water, then you rise them and cook again in chicken broth to which you add an onion, garlic, carrot, celery and a bay leaf. This step is necessary in order to infuse the lentils with even more flavor.




While the lentils were cooking, I prepared the “black olive tapenade” with olives, lemon zest, rosemary, thyme, piment d`esplette, parmesan and some good olive oil (just following Dorie´s recipe for tapenade). Then it was on to the salad dressing. I used some of the tapenade that I had just prepared, grainy French mustard, red wine vinegar, walnut oil and only a bit of olive oil, lemon juice (instead of the preserved lemon) and chives (instead of the scallions)., plus salt and pepper, of course. After carefully mixing the dressing with the lentils, I refrigerated the salad for a couple of hours before serving. This step gives the different flavors a chance to develop even further.




I also baked a few rosemary flatbreads, I love this recipe from the July 2008 issue of Gourmet magazine – it is so easy to prepare. The crisp flatbread was wonderful with the lentil salad and  with some of the leftover tapenade that I served alongside the lentil salad.


Recipe for Crisp Rosemary Flatbread
(adapted from Gourmet Magazine July 2008)

Ingredients

1 3/4 cups unbleached AP flour
1 tbsp chopped rosemary plus 2 (6-inch) sprigs
1 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp fine sea salt
1/2 cup water
1/3 cup fruity olive oil plus more for brushing
Flaky sea salt such as Maldon or other salt such as fleur de sel de Guérande


Preparation

1. Preheat the oven to 450°F with a heavy baking sheet on a rack in the middle of the oven.

2. Stir together the flour, chopped rosemary, baking powder, and salt in a medium bowl. Make a well in the center, then add the water and the oil and gradually stir into the flour with a wooden spoon until a dough forms. Knead the dough gently on a work surface four or five times.

3. Divide the dough into three pieces and roll out one piece (keep the remaining two pieces covered with some plastic wrap) on a sheet of parchment paper into a ten-inch round (please note that the shape of the dough can be rustic and that the dough should be rather thin).

4. Lightly brush the top of the rolled-out dough with some additional oil and scatter a few small clusters of rosemary leaves on top, pressing in slightly. Sprinkle with some sea salt. Slide the dough round (still on parchment) onto the preheated baking sheet and bake until pale golden and browned in spots, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer the baked flatbread (discard the parchment) to a rack to cool, then make two more rounds (one at a time) on fresh parchment.

5. Break into pieces or leave it whole and serve.




To serve the salad, I chose to replace the tuna with smoked trout – personal preference. And I put some fresh watercress on the plates, which went amazingly well with the lentil salad.

Everyone loved this dish. The salad has a wonderful mediterranean taste to it (might be different if you add the preserved lemons) it is so easy to put together and it could be used either as an entrée or as a main course. It is nice to serve flatbread, the remaining tapenade, a few drops of walnut oil and watercress alongside this dish. But, of course, it could be served in numerous different wonderful ways too. Whichever way you chose to serve it, I am sure I will be delicious. Thanks Dorie for another wonderful recipe!




To see how the other Doristas prepared the Lemon, Lentil and Tuna Salad, please click here.



Tuesday, May 29, 2012

Tuesdays with Dorie - Irish Soda Bread (Missed Recipe Make-Up)


As a recipe make-up for the Tuesdays with Dorie baking group, I chose to bake the Irish Soda Bread.




The recipe in the “Baking with Julia” book was contributed by Marion Cunningham. It is a very simple, basic and wonderful recipe for Irish Soda Bread. Since it contains only four ingredients,  namely all purpose flour, salt (I used fine sea salt), baking soda and buttermilk, it seemed important to me to get a really good quality buttermilk.




My favorite buttermilk is sold at a farmers store and that’s what I got before I made the bread today. While I was at the store, I also picked up some of the butter that they produce in order to be able to enjoy a thick slice of the Soda Bread with some really good and wholesome tasting butter.





To see how the other make-up artists fared, please click here.



Sunday, May 27, 2012

A Barrister turns Barista


Last Friday evening it was time for eight eager participants and myself to take a Barista Course at Kessel`s Espresso Studio in Bonn. It was a wonderful evening filled with plenty of technical information about the components of coffee machines, different coffee mills and various coffees/coffee blends and practical information about how to program the right degree of fineness for the coffee, how to prepare the perfect cup of espresso and how to get the milk properly frothed in order to be able to get a "heart design" on top of a freshly prepared cup of cappuccino.

The motto of the evening was four-fold: "the person preparing the coffee - the coffee blend - the coffee mill - the coffee machine" ("die vier M´s: der Mensch - die Mischung - die Mühle - die Maschine").

By the end of the evening we had learned a lot about proper coffee preparation and even managed to "design" a decent heart on top of our cups of cappuccino.

A big thanks to our teachers Bianca und Frank Kessel and to barista Jan for a very memorable and fun-filled evening!

And that is how the Barrister (that would be yours truly) turned into a Barista, at least for one evening!





As the icing on the cake, each participant received a Barista Certificate at the end of the evening - and here is mine:




For more information on Kessel`s Espresso Studio Bonn or the Barista Courses, please refer to my blog post dated May 19, 2012 or contact Bianca or Frank Kessel directly at kessels-espresso-studio@t-online.de.

French Market à Bonn - Französischer Markt in Bonn

Last week there was a French Market ("Französischer Markt") à Bonn. The French Market days take place a couple of times a year. The different merchants always display their wares in the Bonn market square, in front of city hall.




While you were shopping you could enjoy a slice of piping-hot "tarte flambée" ("Flammkuchen" - literally that can be translated as a  tarte that was "licked by the flames").




There was a wide selection of French cheeses, among them cheese from the Cantal region or goat´s cheese.




There were a lot meringue pastries and these widely popular colorful macaroos...




and other French cookies.




There was a market stall with argan oil (this rather expensive oil is produced in Morocco).




Well, who does not to like all those differnet kinds of French "dry sausage" or "saucisson sec".




Small cushions stuffed with dried lavender flowers from the Provence are always popular - especially as gifts.




And there was sea salt from the Camargue ("fleur de sel de Camargue"), Herbes de Provence (with herb mills) and lavender honey.




A lot of people also liked the lavender soaps.




And the wide selection of olives made me a very happy shopper. 




I loved the way the dried fruits such as dates, prunes and figues were arranged.




And this a close-up of the different kinds of "saucisson sec" containing duck, wild boar, beef or bull...




or  hazelnuts, garlic or some piment d'espelette .




À la prochaine! - See you again soon!




That is how the Bonn market place used to look like some time ago
(this engraving is presently gracing one of the walls in my living room).

Friday, May 25, 2012

Persian Love Cake


The rose bush in front of our house blooms. Oftentimes when I look at the pretty pink roses I remember a recipe that I saw quite a few years ago in Bon Appétit magazine, a dainty looking layered chiffon cake with rose scented whipped cream and candied rose petals.




The recipe is straightforward and easy to prepare. I started by picking some rose petals, brushed them with lightly beaten egg whites and sprinkeld them with superfine sugar. Then I let them dry on a baking sheet that I previously covered with parchment paper. Within a few hours, the rose petals had dried.




Then I prepared the dough, just enough for the two 8-inch baking pans. Once the two cake layers have completely cooled on wire racks, the only thing left to do is to prepare the rose scented whipped cream.



Persian Love Cake
( a recipe by Elisabeth Faulkner, featured in Bon Appétit Magazine, June 2005)




For the Candied Rose Petals

2 large egg whites, use organic
1/2 cup superfine sugar
Petals from 2 organic roses


Ingredients for the Cake

1 cup cake flour
14 tbsp superfine sugar, divided
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
3 large eggs, separated
6 tablespoons water
1/4 cup canola oil
1 tsp grated lemon peel (use organic lemon)
1/4 tsp whole cardamom seeds (removed from about 5 green cardamom pods)


Ingredients for the Frosting

2 1/2 cups chilled heavy whipping cream, divided
Pinch of saffron threads

2/3 cup powdered sugar
1 teaspoon rose water

2 tablespoons natural unsalted pistachios


Preparation

For the Candied Rose Petals

Whisk the egg whites in a small bowl until foamy. Using a pastry brush, brush rose petals on both sides with egg whites; sprinkle on both sides with sugar. Dry on nonstick rack at least six hours or overnight.


For the Cake

1. Preheat oven to 325°degrees Fahrenheit. Butter two 8-inch-diameter cake pans with 1 1/2-inch-high sides. Line pan bottoms with parchment paper; butter the parchment.
2. Sift flour, 7 tablespoons baker's sugar, baking powder, and salt into large bowl.
3. Whisk yolks and next 4 ingredients in small bowl until smooth. Add yolk mixture to dry ingredients; whisk until smooth.
4. Beat egg whites in medium bowl until soft peaks form. Gradually add 7 tablespoons baker's sugar; beat until whites resemble thick marshmallow fluff.
5. Fold whites into batter in three additions. Divide batter between prepared pans.
6. Bake until cakes are golden and tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 25 minutes. 7. Cool in pans on racks 15 minutes. Turn out onto racks, peel off parchment, and cool completely.


For the Frosting

1. Combine 1/2 cup cream and saffron in a small saucepan and bring to a simmer. Remove from the heat and let steep for about 20 minutes. Then chill until cold.
2. Beat remaining 2 cups cream, powdered sugar, and rose water in large bowl until soft peaks form and strain in the saffron cream. Then beat until peaks form.
3. Place one cake layer, flat side up, on platter. Spread one cup frosting over and top with second cake layer, flat side down. Spread remaining frosting over top and sides of cake. Chill at least one hour and up to six..
4. Decorate the cake with rose petals and pistachios.




This recipe is a wonderful recipe. The Persian Love Cake turns out light and elegant with delicate eastern flavors and it is not overly sweet. The frosting is also delicious and the taste of the rose water and saffron do come through. The rose petals are also absolutely beautiful and delicious and the green pistachios are a nice touch.

I highly recommend this pretty cake and would make it again. It was a nice ending to an early summertime buffet – with the temperatures that we are having right now, it already feels like summer and I had to make sure to take the cake out of the fridge at the last minute, otherwise I believe the creamy frosting would not have held up.

However, I should add a caveat. Depending on the kind of cardamom, saffron and rose water you use, go easy at first with these additions because their flavors can easily overpower the otherwise subtle flavors of this cake.

What a better way to present pink rose petals than by decorating this cake with them.