Friday, June 19, 2020

Red Rhubarb & Wild Strawberry Tart l Rote Rhabarbertarte mit Walderdbeeren


This tart is meant to celebrate the humble rhubarb and the delectable wild strawberry (aka the wood strawberry) that happily grows in our garden. The tart has a buttery crust and a custardy filling with plenty of summery flavors.




Serve it for tea or, as I often do, for breakfast, rhubarb is a vegetable, after all. The rhubarb stalks can be used raw, when they have a crisp texture - one of my fondest childhood food memories involves eating a stalk of fresh rhubarb that we picked in my grandmother's garden and dipped in white sugar - but stalks of rhubarb are most commonly cooked with sugar and used in pies, crumbles and other desserts. Or, if you prefer your food to be on the savory side, use rhubarb to make a chutney, or a BBQ sauce, salad dressing or ketchup. Cooked or raw, rhubarb stalks have a strong, tart taste. But if you can, choose the brightest red stalks that you can find over the green ones, as the red ones tend to be a bit sweeter and have a more complex flavor - some people around here call the red stalks 'strawberry rhubarb' (Erdbeer-Rhabarber) because of the vivid color and relative sweet taste.

When I make this tart, I always add a few tiny yet amazingly flavorful wild strawberries but if they are not in season while the rhubarb already is, I go with all rhubarb. Not so much that the strawberries are a dominant flavor, but they add a little extra something to this tart. Plus they are very pretty in a cake.




Around here, the growing season for rhubarb officially ends next week, on June 24th to be exact, so it is high time to be baking this tart. Before that date, the plant has lower levels of oxalic acid and less sourness and the stalks tend to be less coarse.

Remember to wash and trim the rhubarb stems before you intend to use them and make sure to discard the leaves as they are poisonous. If you cook with outdoor-grown rhubarb, remove any stringy outer layers. And, as a general rule, you should cut it into equal-sized pieces to ensure even cooking.




This is also a great tart to make ahead of time, it tastes just as good the day after making. If you wanted to serve it with whipped cream or a good vanilla ice cream, by all means do so, but I think it is fine as is, maybe with just a slight dusting of powdered sugar.




Whether you take the time to make a geometric pattern or simply scatter your stalks, it’s your choice, any way you bake it, this tart is easy and utterly delicious.




Rhubarb and Wild Strawberry Tart

Ingredients

For the Pastry
  • 225g plain (AP) flour, plus extra for rolling
  • 25g ground almonds (almond flour)
  • 2 tbsp icing sugar
  • 140g cold butter, unsalted, cubed
  • 1 egg yolk (L), organic or free range
  • 1 to 2 tbsps cold water
For the Filling
  • 50g pistachios, unsalted, ground
  • 500g red rhubarb, trimmed and peeled
  • a small handful of wild strawberris (you can omit these and substitute with regular small strawberries or more rhubarb)
  • 2 eggs (M), organic of free range
  • 125ml milk (I like to use 3.5%)
  • 125ml cooking cream (or use all milk, for a 250ml total)
  • 2 tbsps superfine (caster) sugar
  • 8g pure vanilla sugar (or use 1 tbsp vanilla extract)
  • a pinch of fine sea salt

Preparation
  1. To make the pastry, put the flour, almonds, icing sugar and butter in a food processor.
  2. Blitz until the mixture resembles breadcrumbs. While the motor is running, add the egg yolk and dribble in 1 to 2 tbsp cold water.
  3. Tip onto your lightly floured work surface and knead briefly to bring the mixture together to form a dough.
  4. Wrap in kitchne wrap and chill for about 30 to 60 minutes.
  5. Pre-heat your oven to 190°C.
  6. Remove the pastry from the fridge. If it is a little hard, leave it at room temperature to soften for 10 mins or so.
  7. Roll out to on a lightly floured surface and use it to line a 23cm fluted tart pan. Cut a round of baking paper bigger than the pan and place in the pan with baking beans on top.
  8. Bake blind for 15 to 20 mins, then remove the beans and bake for a further 5 to 10 mins until lightly golden.
  9. Remove the tart from the oven and turn the oven down to 160°C.
  10. While the tart is in the oven, prepare the filling. Whisk together the eggs, milk, cream, vanilla sugar and salt.
  11. Sprinkle ground pistachios over the bottom of the case, arrange rhubarb pieces on top, scatter wild strawberrie in bewteen and pour the cream mixture over the fuit.
  12. Place the tart on a parchment-lined baking sheet in the oven and bake for 30 to 35 minutes until it is just set.
  13. Remove from the oven and leave to cool completely before cutting into slices.




Rhabarber und Walderdbeertarte

Zutaten

Für den Teig
  • 225g Weizenmehl, Type 405, plus etwas zum Ausrollen
  • 25g gemahlene Mandeln (Mandelmehl)
  • 2TL Puderzucker
  • 140g kalte Butter, gewürfelt
  • 1 Eigelb (L), Bio-oder Freilandhaltung
  • 1 bis 2 EL kaltes Wasser
Für den Guss
  • 50g gemahlene Pistazien (ungesalzen)
  • 500g Rhabarber, rot, geputzt
  • eine kleine Handvoll Walderbeeren (man kann auch kleine reguläre Erdbeeren nehmen oder mehr Rhababer
  • 2 Eier (M), Bio- oder Freilandhaltung
  • 125ml Milch (3.5%)
  • 125ml Sahne (zum Kochen geeignet)
  • 2 EL feinster Zucker
  • 8g Bourbon Vanillezucker
  • eine Prise Meersalz

Zubereitung

  1. Alle Zutaten zu einem glatten Teig  verkneten, zur Kugel formen, in Klarsichtfolie wickeln und 30 bis 60 Minuten in den Kühlschrank legen. 
  2. Den Backofen auf 190°C vorheizen. 
  3. Den Teig aus dem Kühlschrank nehmen. Teig auf der bemehlten Arbeitsfläche ausrollen (23 cm Durchmesser). Falls der Teig sich noch nicht so gut ausrollen läßt, gute 10 Minuten bei Zimmertemperatur liegen lassen. Tarteform einfetten, mit Teig auslegen. Teig mehrmals mit der Gabel einstechen. Mit Backpapier auslegen und mit Backbohnen beschweren und für 15 bis 20 Minuten blind backen, dann das Backpapier entfernen und weitere 5 bis 10 Minuten backen.
  4. Die Ofentemperatur auf 160° C herunterschalten.
  5. Die gemahlenen Pistazien über dem Boden verteilen, dann die Rhababerstücke und die Walderdbeeren darauf verteilen.
  6. Für den Guss die Eier, Milch, Sahne, Zucker, Vanillezucker und Salz verrühren. Eierguß auf den Rhabarber und die Walderdbeeren gießen.
  7. Tarte auf der 1. Einschubleiste von unten 30 bis 35 Minuten zu Ende backen.
  8. Nach dem Backen auf einem Kuchenrost auskühlen lassen.






For more rhubarb inspiration, take a look at some of my other recipes:

  • Springtime Baking: Yogurt Rhubarb Bundt Frühlingsgugelhupf mit Jogurt und Rhabarber (HERE)
  • Old Viennese Topfen Cake & Oven-Baked Rhubarb - Altwiener Topfentorte & Ofen-Gebackener Rhabarber (HERE)
  • Rhubarb Cordial and Rhubarb Almond Bundt - Rhabarber Sirup und Rhabarber-Mandel Kuchen (HERE)
  • Spring Rhubarb Tart - Frühlings-Rhabarbertarte (HERE)
  • Nigel Slater´s Rhubarb Cinnamon Polenta Cake (HERE)
  • Fresh Rhubarb Upside-Down Baby Cakes (HERE)
  • Hungarian Shortbread with Homemade Rhubarb Jam (HERE)



Friday, June 12, 2020

Filo Tart with White Asparagus, Goat Cheese & Meadowsweet Blossoms l Filotarte mit weißem Spargel, Ziegenkäse & Mädesüßblüten


Asparagus season is said to last only until June 24th in these parts, so before the season for the most tender white asparagus comes to an end, here is one more recipe for a dish with white asparagus. This is a delicate, pretty tart that easily serves four as an appetizer or two for lunch if served with a seasonal side salad or lovely summertime soup.





White asparagus has a mild, delicate flavor, with a hint of nuttiness. It is grown under mounds of soil to protect it from the light that would turn it green, and the spears are usually harvested early in the morning and, as mentioned above, asparagus season is short, running only from mid-April until early June, much to the dismay of many white asparagus enthusiasts.




The spears range from very thin to very fat and no matter their size, you have to peel the tough outer layers of the stalks, leaving the tips. After carefully peeling the spears, you need to snap the tough root end from the spears, as these can be stringy when cooked. White asparagus takes about twice as long to cook as green, and requires about 10 to 15 minutes of cooking, depending, of course, on the thickness of the spears.





White asparagus is traditionally served with boiled potatoes and topped with Hollandaise sauce around here. Or with chopped boiled egg and melted butter in Belgium (asperges à la flamande). After having eaten my share of white asparagus prepared the traditional way, I really enjoyed it paired with a fresh local goat cheesemeadowsweet blossoms and fresh dill from my garden on a crunchy filo base. 




The meadowsweet, or filipendula ulmaria, is a herb which has some fascinating medicinal uses including its ability to reduce pain, it is also known as a traditional hangover remedy. It is a perennial herb from the rosaceae family and can be found growing wild all over Europe and Western Asia. The most likely place you will find them growing are damp meadows where they often cover vast areas with their fluffy plumes of off-white flower heads. Meadowsweet is sweetly scented (a bit like almonds) and when you pass a large area of them, the scent is almost intoxicating.

It is no wonder then that meadowsweet has been long used as a 'strewing herb', meaning that this fragrant herb was strewn on floors to scent a room, dwelling places or buildings. It is said that meadowsweet was the favorite chamber flower of Queen Elizabeth I, as she was particularly fond of meadowsweet, it was regularly strewn (scattered) over the floor of her chamber where it gave off a pleasant smell.

The most interesting thing about this plant though is its use in the culinary world. The plant itself is edible and has many uses in the kitchen from making beer, wine and vinegars as well as adding the flowers to jam.

The Tudor herbalist and botanist John Gerard called this wild flower the 'Queene of the medowes' and described how it was used to scent people's houses and 'delighteth the senses'.(John Gerard, Gerard's Herbal)



Filo Tart with White Asparagus, Goat Cheese and Meadowsweet Blossoms
(serves 4 as an appetizer or side dish or 2 as a main dish when served with a side dish)

Ingredients
  • 5 layers of filo pastry dough (stack them up and cut out a circle that will fit your baking sheet, this is best done using kitchen scissors)
  • unsalted butter, melted (if you prefer, you can use olive oil)
  • 100g fresh goat cheese (preferably locally sourced), or use more if your tart is larger
  • about 14-18 white asparagus spears, depending on the size of the tart and the asparagus, you might need more or less
  • sea salt and freshly ground black pepper (you can also use white pepper if you prefer)
  • mild olive oil (suitable for cooking)
  • a few meadowsweet blossoms or other edible flowers
  • fresh dill or other fresh herbs
Preparation
  1. Boil in salted water and cook the peeled white asparagus until they are soft yet retain a bite, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and let cool for a few minutes.
  2. In the meantime, pre-heat your oven to 180°C (365°F).
  3. Lay out the first layer of filo pastry on your baking sheet lined with baking parchment, brush with some melted butter, add the second layer of filo pastry, brush with more melted butter and do the same with the remaining filo pastry, until all 5 layers are brushed and stacked.
  4. Firts, spread the goat cheese evenly over the top layer, leaving a 1.5cm (0.5in) border around the edges (an offset spatula will come in handy for this).
  5. Then top the filo tart with the cooked and cooled white asparagus.
  6. Season to taste with sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
  7. Drip a little olive oil over the entire tart.
  8. Bake the tart for about 15 to 20 minutes in your pre-heated oven, remove from the oven, place the baking sheet on a cooling rack and let the tart settle and cool for a few minutes. Then transfer to a serving platter and just before serving, sprinkle fresh dill (or other fresh, soft herbs) and meadowsweet blossoms (and/or other edible flowers) on top.
  9. Serve right away.


Filotarte mit weißem Spargel, Ziegenkäse & Mädesüßblüten

Zutaten
  • 5 Filoteigblätter (aufeinander legen mit einer Küchenschere in der Größe des Backblechs zuschneiden)
  • etwas geschmolzene Butter (wer möchte nimmt Olivenöl)
  • 100g Ziegenfrischkäse (wenn möglich regional), oder mehr falls die Tarte größer ausfällt
  • zirka 14-18 Spargelstangen, oder mehr, je nach Größe und Dicke
  • Meersalz, frisch gemahlener Pfeffer
  • Olivenöl (mild)
  • einige Mädesüssblüten oder andere essbare Blüten
  • frischer Dill oder andere frische Kräuter
Zubereitung
  1. Den Spargel schälen, kochen und etwas abkühlen lassen.
  2. In der Zwischenzeit den Ofen auf 180°C vorheizen.
  3. Für die Tarte ein Teigblatt dünn mit etwas Butter bepinseln, zweites Blatt darauflegen und dünn mit Butter bepinseln, dann das dritte, vierte und fünfte Blatt darauflegen, jeweils dünn mit Butter bepinseln. Teigblattstapel vorsichtig auf ein mit Backpapier belegtes Blech legen, dabei darauf achten, dass der Teig nicht reißt.
  4. Den Ziegenkäse auf den Teigstapel streichen (dabei einen 1.5 cm Rand aussparen).
  5. Den Spargel auf den Ziegenkäse legen.
  6. Pfeffern und salzen.
  7. Ein wenig mildes Olivenöl über die Tarte tröpfeln.
  8. Die Tarte zirka 15 bis 20 Minuten im vorgeheizten Ofen backen. Aus dem Ofen nehmen, etwas abkühlen lassen und dann auf einer Platte anrichten, dabei kurz vor dem Servieren mit Mädesüßblüten (und/oder anderen essbaren Blüten) und etwas Dill (oder anderen frischen Kräutern) bestreuen und sofort servieren.



A little fresh white asparagus, herbs and edible flowers/blossoms go a long way in this seasonal dish.


For more Filo Tart inspiration on my blog, have a look at:

  • December Filo Tart with Mini Brussels Sprouts (Winterliche Filotarte mit Rosenkohlröschen) (HERE)
  • Filo Tart with fresh Figs & Prosciutto (Filotarte mit frischen Feigen & Prosciutto) (HERE)
  • Crispy, Crackly Apple-Almond Tart (HERE)
  • River Cottage "Veg Everyday" Courgette and Filo Rice Pie (HERE)
  • Red Swiss Chard & Mushroom Filo Tart (Filotarte mit rotem Mangold & braunen Champignons) (HERE)




Monday, June 8, 2020

Grissini (Italian Breadsticks) with Red Onion Skins & Leaf-to-Root Eating Part 2 - Grissini mit roten Zwiebelschalen


Grissini are semi or fully crisp breadsticks, originally from the region of Piedmont (Piemonte), the City of Turin (Torino) in Northern Italy, to be exact. They are said to have been invented by the Italian baker Antonio Brunero for Vittòrio Amedèo II di Savoia, the Count of Savoy (1666-1732).

Grissini come in a variety of sizes, from pencil-thin grissini to baguettes or Stirato (the Italian version of the French Baguette). Grissini make a simple, tasty snack and are often served as an easy appetizer with pre-dinner drinks or as part of a wonderful antipasti spread. They are wonderful when served with an assortment of olives, Prosciutto di Parma, Italian salami, summer tomatoes and melons (like a melone di pane).

Grissini are one of my favorite savory things to bake and I enjoy experimenting with different flavors and textures, this time I decided to make them part of my Leaf-to-Root Eating series and add dried and ground up red onion skins to the dough, the same way I added them to my Quiche Crust recipe HERE.





Typical ingredients include wheat flour (so-called 'strong baking flour' or Italian '00' works best) but you can also bake them with whole wheat or rye flour, then water, salt, either olive oil or other fat and yeast or another raising agents - remember that if you chose to use whole wheat flour, you might need to add more liquid to your dough.

You can enjoy Grissini plain, with coarse sea salt, or add a few pulverized red onion skins to them which will add a nice oniony flavor and pretty flecks of color. But there are really no limits to what you can add to them, use flavorings such grated Grana Padano or Parmesan, finely chopped herbs such as rosemary or thyme, or add chopped green and black olives to the dough, or sprinkle them with black and white sesame seeds, poppy seeds, or black onion seeds (nigella seeds) just before baking. You can also add some Italian tomato paste to the dough, which will not only add color but also tomato flavor. Whichever way you make them, in general, Grissini will keep well if kept in an airtight container and they can be crisped in the oven for a couple of minutes if they become a little soft.





"You can never have too many grissini in life." Dan Lepard, The Guardian (18.06.2010)




Grissini with Red Onion Skins

Ingredients
  • 10g fresh yeast (alternatively use 1 tbsp dried yeast)
  • 125ml tepid water
  • 250g strong white bread flour (I used Italian flour marked 00), plus extra for dusting
  • a handful of red onions skins, washed, dried and ground up* (from organic onions, if possible)
  • ½ tsp fine sea salt
  • 1 tbsp mild olive oil (suitable for baking)
  • a bit of fresh water (for brushing)
  • coarse sea salt (for sprinkling)
Preparation
  1. In a small bowl combine the yeast with the tepid water and set aside until foamy.
  2. In another bowl whisk together the flour with the ground onion skins and the salt, then add the olive oil and the yeast-water mixture. Knead with the dough hook or your hands until the dough comes together and is smooth and elastic (this will take close to 5 minutes).
  3. Cover and set aside for 30 minutes.
  4. Line two baking sheets with baking parchment and pre-heat the oven to 350°F (180°C).
  5. Dust the work surface with flour and roll the dough out to a rectangular shape.
  6. Cut the dough into 25 to 30 strips. Use your hands to roll each strip into a thin log (each roughly 25cm long), starting at the center and moving outwards, stretching the dough slightly as you roll. Press each end lightly with your thumb, to make an 'ear' shape or, alternatively, you can twist the dough logs for a bit of different look.
  7. Place on the prepared baking sheets, brush with a bit of water, sprinkle with some coarse sea salt and bake for about 10 to 15 minutes until crisp and golden.
  8. Transfer to wire racks to cool. They will keep for about a week in an airtight container.
* NOTE about the onion skins: inorder to 'pulverize' them, they have to be totally dry. If you find it difficult to grind them, add a bit of flour to your kitchen blender and blend them as finely or as coarsely as you whish, before adding them to the remaining flour.



Grissini mit roten Zwiebelschalen

Zutaten
  • 10g frische Hefe
  • 125ml lauwarmes Wasser
  • 250g Mehl (entweder italienisches Mehl '00' ODER Type 550)
  • einige rote Zwiebelschalen (gewaschen, getrocknet und gemahlen) - Bio-Qualität wenn möglich
  • ½ TL feines Meersalz
  • 1 EL mildes Olivenöl (zum Backen geeignet)
  • etwas frisches Wasser (zum Bestreichen)
  • grobes Meersalz (zum Bestreuen)
Zubereitung
  1. Die Hefe mit 125ml lauwarmen Wasser verrühren.
  2. Das Mehl in einer Schüssel mit den Zwiebelschalen und dem Salz mischen, Olivenöl und Hefewasser dazugeben und alles von Hand oder mit dem Knethaken verkneten, bis der Teig geschmeidig ist (das dauert zirka 5 Minuten). Den Teig zu einer Kugel formen, abdecken und zirka 30 Minuten an einem warmen Ort gehen lassen.
  3. Den Backofen auf 180°C vorheizen, zwei Backblecke mit Backpapier auslegen. Teig rechteckig ausrollen (1/2 cm dick) und mit einem Messer zu dünnen Streifen schneiden und diese jeweils zu dünnen Strängen rollen.
  4. Die Teigstränge auf das Backblech legen, mit ein wenig Wasser bepinseln und etwas grobem Meersalz bestreuen.
  5. In der Mitte des Ofens etwa 10 bis 15 Minuten backen, am Rande dürfen die Grissini etwas Farbe annehmen, ansonsten sollten sie relativ hell sein. Herausnehmen und auf einem Gitter auskühlen lassen. Gut verpackt sind die Grissini ein paar Tage haltbar.




For more Leaf-to-Root Eating inspiration, have a look at my recipes for:

  • Wild Garlic Quiche with Onion Skins in the Crust (HERE)
  • Red Beet Top & Goat’s Cheese Bruschetta (HERE)




For more Grissini inspiration on my blog, have a look at:

  • Grissini with Garden Herbs, Parmesan & Tomato (Grissinis mit Rosmarin, Parmesan & Tomatenpüree) (HERE)






Wednesday, June 3, 2020

Elderflower Fritters l Ausgebackene Holunderblüten


Elderflowers are by far the most delicious edible flowers, in my opinion. Their smell and taste is intoxicating. When it’s elderflower season, I enjoy making homemade elderflower cordial. I also love to bake cookies and cakes like my Elderflower Cake with Strawberry-Elderflower Filling (HERE) or breads like my Elderflower Bread (HERE) with homemade elderfower cordial and freshly picked elderflower blossoms.

I pick my elderflowers in our garden but if you do not have a garden, then you have to go out and look for elderflowers. They are quite common at the side of roads, but for the best flowers, you need to head off into a forest or some other wild spot to find pretty, fresh blossoms. If you find some, pick a few but make sure that they grow far away from traffic. For any recipe that calls for fresh elderflowers, you have to make sure to pick them on the same day that you like to use them as they do not keep well once you have gathered them.




As far as the batter for my recipe is concerned, you need a really light batter or the lacy effect of the flowers is lost. The batter should barely cover them and cook particularly quickly, leaving the fritters to come out light and crisp, the batter clinging to them gently. For a more robust batter, you will have to increase the amount of flour. But I recommend that you do a test fry first, if the batter is too thick, the fritters will puff up into a single mass. Then it’s time to try again with a thinner batter (add a bit more liquid).

Just make sure the flowers are well-coated, but allow a lot of the batter to drip off and shake the flowerhead lightly to get rid of any drips. Then drop it into the hot oil, and, like magic, it will open up and you will be left with the much-anticipated lacy, fluffy looking result, with the batter forming little 'pearls' around the flowers.




Once cooked, I do not like to dredge them in sugar but like to dust them with powdered sugar just before serving – otherwise the powdered sugar might just soak up oil and become mush. But if you prefer to use regular fine sugar, by all means, go for it and then your fritters will have a certain crunch and might sparkle in the summer sun.




Elderflower fritters are quite unusual. You need to like the elderflower flavor (a bit like a muscat grape taste), and you need to be in a position to serve them promptly – you want them to be warm and absolutely crisp. A nice, fun way to finish off an informal lunch or summer supper perhaps. When you bite in, there is a combination of clean, crisp batter with the sweetness of the sugar, and then the aroma and flavor of the elderflowers comes through.




As I mentiones, there are a few elder bushes in our garden. And I like to use elderflowers and, later in fall elderberries, for baking and cooking. Elderflowers are blooming in May and June, only for a couple of weeks and one of my favorite recipes at this time of year is the one for Elderflower Fritters or Ausgebackene Holunderblüten as we like to refer to them. Their season is short and the flowers are elusive, so make them while you can.




Elderflower Fritters

Ingredients
  • 50g unsalted butter
  • 200g AP (plain) flour
  • a pinch of fine sea salt
  • 250ml mineral water (sparkling water)
  • 2 eggs (L), free range or organic
  • 8g pure vanilla sugar (or use homemade)
  • 1 tbsp superfine (caster) sugar
  • 14 to 16 freshly picked heads of elderflower blossoms
  • neutral tasting oil for frying
  • powdered sugar for dusting

Preparation
  1. Melt the butter. In a bowl, whisk together the flour with the salt and the mineral water.
  2. Separate the eggs. Add the egg yolks and the melted butter to the flour mixture. 
  3. Beat the egg whites in a grease free bowl with the vanilla sugar and the sugar until stiff peaks form. Fold the egg whites into the batter and mix gently until you have a thick batter.
  4. Gently shake any dirt or insects off your elderflower heads and do not wash them as they will loose a lot of their flavor.
  5. Heat the oil in a pan over medium heat.
  6. Holding the elderflowers by their stems, dip each elderflower into the batter, then drop them into the pan with the hot oil, flower side down.
  7. Fry until lightly golden. Remove from the oil and place them on paper kitchen towel.
  8. Dust the elderflower fritters with powdered sugar and serve straight away – if you would like to keep them warm while preparing the remaining flower heads, place them in a warm oven for a few minutes (about 125°F will do).
  9. You can serve them simply dusted with powdered sugar.




Ausgebackene Holunderblüten (Hollerküchle)

Zutaten
  • 50g Butter
  • 200g Mehl (Type 405)
  • eine Prise feines Salz
  • 250ml Mineralwasser
  • 2 Eier (L), Freilandhaltung oder Bio
  • 8g Bourbon Vanillezucker
  • 1 EL feinster Zucker
  • 14 bis 16 frisch gepflückte Holunderblüten mit Stiel
  • Öl oder Butterschmalz oder neutrales Öl zum Ausbacken
  • Puderzucker zum Bestäuben

Zubereitung
  1. Für den Ausbackteig die Butter schmelzen. 
  2. Das Mehl mit einer Prise Salz und dem Mineralwasser zu einem Teig glatt rühren
  3. Die Eier trennen. Die Eigelbe und die geschmolzene Butter unter den Teig rühren. 
  4. Die Eiweiße mit dem Vanillezucker und Zucker steif schlagen und unterheben (dickflüssiger Teig).
  5. Die Holunderblüten verlesen (über einem Küchentuch ausschütteln, nicht waschen).
  6. Öl oder Butterschmalz in einem flachen Topf erhitzen. Es ist heiß genug, wenn an einem ins Fett getauchten Holzlöffel Bläschen aufsteigen.
  7. Die Holunderblüten am Stiel anfassen, in den Teig tauchen, gut abtropfen lassen und mit dem Stiel nach oben in das heiße Fett tauchen und goldgelb ausbacken.
  8. Ausgebackene Holunderblüten auf Küchenpapier abtropfen lassen und mit Puderzucker bestreut frisch servieren (die fertigen Holunderblüten können bei 52 °C im Backofen warmgehalten werden, ganz frisch aus der Pfanne schmecken sie aber am besten).





For more recipe ideas with elderflowers, have a look at my recipes for:

  • Elderflower Bread (Holunderblüten Brot) (HERE)
  • Elderflower Cake with Strawberry-Elderflower Filling (Holunderblütenkuchen mit Erdbeer-Holunderblütenmarmelade) (HERE)
  • Elderflower Shortbread (Holunderblüten Shortbread) (HERE)





Wednesday, May 27, 2020

Festive Beignets for Pentecost (Whitsun) - Heiliggeistkrapfen für die Pfingsttage


This coming Sunday we celebrate Pentecost (Pfingsten). Pentecost or Pfingsten is a Christian holiday, which is celebrated on the 50th day of the Easter season (Osterfestkreis), that is, the 49 days after Easter Sunday (Ostersonntag). Pentecost is also called 'the birthday of the Church', as Christians remember this day as the day when the Holy Spirit (Heiliger Geist) came to the earth as Jesus had promised.

Since Pentecost is so firmly rooted in Germany’s Christian traditions, Pentecost is celebrated on two consecutive days, Pentecost Sunday (Pfingstsonntag) and Pentecost Monday (Pfingstmontag). Pentecost Monday (also called Whit Monday in Britain) is an official holiday in Germany, shops and businesses are closed and in some federal states students also have a so-called Pentecost break (Pfingstferien), and, traditionally, many Germans avail themselves of the opportunity for a short vacation. Therefore, Pentecost Sunday (also called Whit Sunday) is a public holiday as well as the ceremonial culmination of the Easter season.





There are a number of charming local and regional customs associated with and tied to this springtime feast, some of them date back to pre-Christian times. Already during the Middle Ages, noble and royal marriages, knights’ jousting tournaments, and many riding competitions were held with great fanfare on Pentecost.

In many regions of Germany special Pentecost customs and traditions are being re-discovered and thriving again, such as the planting of a decorated birch tree called the 'Pentecost Tree' (Pfingstbaumpflanzen), and the 'Pentecost Tree Wreath' (Pfingstkranz) a custom which involves locals singing and dancing around a Pentecost Tree, and then there is the 'Pentecost Ox' (der Pfingstochse), a special Pentecost Sunday custom, during which cattle in rural areas (normally in the South of Germany) are driven towards fields often located high in the mountains. The strongest animals are decorated with ribbons, flowers and plants and lead a street procession.





Many Christians attend a special church service at Pentecost. And spring fun fairs (Pfingstkirmes) are held on the long Pentecost weekend in many areas of Germany. At church services, singing Pentecost hymns (Pfingstlieder) are central to the celebration in the Western tradition. And let’s not forget about those lovely Peonies (Pfingstrosen - the German name for these flowers literally translates to 'Pentecost roses'), those big pastel or white flowers that grow in large bushes and give off a lovely floral scent. They are known in many cultures in many different varities and are extremely popular in Germany around Pentecost.




In past times, popular superstitions about Pentecost revolved around certain herbs, plants and even flowers. For example, the calendula  (Ringelblume) was believed to have curative powers if picked on Pentecost Sunday morning at sunrise. People also believed that face-washing with Pentecost dew (Pfingsttau) would prevent freckles.  It was also hoped that water, scooped up from wells or brooks at this time (Pfingstwasser) would heal the sick, or that lighting one’s candle from a Pentecost bonfire would dispel evil spirits.




To come back to the more somewhat wordly pleasures of Pentecost, let’s talk about today’s recipe the 'Pentecost Beignets' (Heiliggeistkrapfen). To put it simply, these beignets are round shaped pieces of dough that are deep fried until golden and crunchy and then generously sprinkled with confectioners sugar. They’re best served hot, shared with beloved family members or friends and are a true delight when paired with a cup of coffee or afternoon tea.




The round shape of the beignet is said to resemble the shape of a dove. In Christian Iconography, a dove symbolizes the Holy Spirit. And the creases (Windungen) in the beignets are said to symbolize the seven gifts of the Holy Spirit (die 7 Gaben des Heiligen Geistes), they are an enumeration of seven spiritual gifts, namely wisdom, understanding, counsel, fortitude, knowledge, piety, and fear of the Lord (die Gaben der Weisheit, der Einsicht, des Rates, der Erkenntnis, der Stärke, der Frömmigkeit und der Gottesfurcht).




Festive Pentecost Beignets

Ingredients
(yields about 10 beignets)
  • 250g plain (AP) flour
  • 1 generous pinch of fine salt
  • ½ tsp ground aniseed
  • 8g pure vanilla sugar (or use homemade vanilla sugar)
  • 5 egg yolks (M), organic or free range
  • 125ml cooking cream
  • 1 tbsp rum (you can substitute milk) - optional
  • about 4 cups oil, for deep frying
  • powdered sugar (optional)

Preparation
  1. In a bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, aniseed and vanilla sugar.
  2. In another bowl, whish together the egg yolks with the cream (and rum if using). Then add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and stir with a wooden spoon.
  3. Then, on a lightly floured work surface, knead the dough until smooth. Roll the dough into a fat sausage shape, wrap in kitchen foil and let it rest for about 1 hour.
  4. Once the dough has rested, cut ten slices from it. Take each slice and roll it out (again on a lighty floured work surface) to a round, very thin shape – it should be as thin as you can go (comparable to a strudel like dough). Place each rolled-out disk onto a floured clean kitchen towel and cover the disks with another towel so they do not dry out while your work on the rest. Proceed with the remaining dough until you have a total of 10 very thin dough disks.
  5. In the meantime, in a large enameled cast-iron pan, heat about 4in (10cm) of oil to 340°F to 360°F. 
  6. Very carefully place one dough round at a time into the hot oil and fry the dough until it puffs up and the beignet is light golden brown in color, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. NOTE: in order to create the 'creases' in the dough, you have to hold the dough down in the middle with a wooden spoon whilst turning the dough clockwise with another wooden spoon (it does take a bit of practice).
  7. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beignet to a paper lined sheet and repeat with remaining dough.
  8. Dust with powdered sugar and serve at once.




Heiliggeistkrapfen

Zutaten
(für 10 Krapfen)
  • 250g Weizenmehl (Type 405), plus etwas für die Arbeitsfläche
  • 1 Prise Salz, fein
  • ½ TL Anis, gemahlen 
  • 8g Bourbon Vanillezucker
  • 5 Eidotter (M), Bio- oder Freilandhaltung
  • 125ml Sahne (30%)
  • 1 EL Rum (oder Milch) optional
  • Pflanzenfett, Butterschmalz oder Öl zum Ausbacken
  • Puderzucker (nach Geschmack)

Zubereitung
  1. Für die Heiligengeistkrapfen das Mehl mit dem Salz, Anis und Vanillezucker vermengen.
  2. Die Eidotter mit der Sahne (und Rum) verrühren, zur Mehlmischung geben und alles zu einem glatten Teig verkneten.
  3. Das Ganze auf der Arbeitsfläche mit ein wenig Mehl zu einem glatten Teig kneten. Zu einer dicken Rolle formen, in Folie einwickeln und 1 Stunde ruhen lassen.
  4. Dann von der Rolle kleine Stücke abschneiden und diese zu hauchdünnen Kreisen ausrollen – der ausgerollte Teig sollte so dünn wie Strudelteig sein. Die Teigkreise auf ein bemehltes Küchentuch legen und jeweils abdecken bis der Teig verarbeitet ist.
  5. Inzwischen das Fett schmelzen lassen. Die Teigkreise ins auf ca. 160 °C (bis 170°) erhitzte Fett geben, mithilfe von zwei Holzlöffeln in die Teigkreise während des Backens Windungen hineindrehen, dann den Krapfen umdrehen und ca. 2 Minuten auch auf der zweiten Seite goldbraun backen – der Krapfen ist schnell ausgebacken und wird schnell zu dunkel.
  6. Nach dem Abtropfen und Auskühlen die Heiligengeistkrapfen mit Puderzucker bestreuen und wenn möglich umgehend servieren.





Please note that this blog post is part of my series for a local radio station, where, throughout the years, I present different baked goods that are closely tied to various holidays and seasons. If you are interested, have a LOOK & LISTEN (in German) HERE.

The various recipes of my series can be found here:
  • in January, for Three Kings Day (Dreikönigstag) two kinds of Galette des Rois (Dreikönigskuchen) (HERE)
  • for Lent (Fastenzeit) Lenten Soup with Lenten Beugel (Fastenbeugel) (HERE)
  • for Good Friday (Karfreitag) the delicious Hot Cross Buns (HERE)
  • for Pentecost /Whitsun (Pfingsten) the fun Allgäu Bread Birds (Allgäuer Brotvögel) (HERE)
  • for the beginning of the summer vacation, the lovely Sacristains (Almond & Sugar Puff Pastry Sticks) (HERE)
  • for St Christopher's Day (St Christophorus), the energy-packed Müsli Power Bars (Müsli Energieriegel) (HERE)
  • for Mary's Assumption Day (Mariä Himmelfahrt) my Tear & Share Herb Bread (Kräuterbrot) (HERE)
  • for Mary’s Birthday (Mariä Geburt) some very pretty Mary’s Sweet Rolls (Süße Marienküchlein) (HERE)
  • for Thanksgiving (Erntedankfest) a delicious and seasonal Thanksgiving Apple Tart with Frangipane (Erntedank Apfeltarte mit Mandelcreme) (HERE)
  • for Halloween a Pumpkin Spice Bundt Cake (Kürbis-Gewürzkuchen)
  • for St Martin's Day (Martinsfest) the cheerful Sweet Dough Men (Weckmänner) (HERE)
  • for St Andrew's Day (Andreastag) a classic Petticoat Tails Shortbread (HERE)
  • for Christmas Day (Weihnachten) these Traditional German Gingerbread (Elisenlebkuchen) (HERE
  • for New Year's Eve New Year's Eve Pretzel (Neujahrsbretzel)
  • for Candelmas Day (Mariä Lichtmess) some delightful Navettes de Saint Victor (HERE)
  • for Carnival Season (Karneval) these lovely Carnival Doughnuts (Karnevals-Krapfen) (HERE
  • for St Patrick's Day a traditional Irish Brown Soda Bread (Irisches Sodabrot)(HERE
  • for St Joseph's Day a long-forgotten but thankfully re-discovered Sweet Cotton Bread (Baumwollbrot)(HERE
  • for Palm Sunday (Palmsonntag) these very pretty Palm Pretzels (Palmbrezel) (HERE)
  • for Easter Sunday (Ostersonntag) an Easter Brunch at Home with Tarte Flambée (Flammkuchen) (HERE)
  • for the Month of May (Marienmonat Mai) these elegant Visitandines de Nancy (HERE
  • for Pentecost/Whitsun these festive Beignets (Heiliggeistkrapfen) (HERE) - more delicious treats to come very soon.





Sunday, May 17, 2020

Hänsel & Gretel Cookies - How to turn Yesterday's Loaves into Today's Cookies - Hänsel & Gretel Kekse


When you’re going through unknowable times, something familiar – like cookies - are very comforting and may help keep you on an even keel. Additionally, you will be able to use up some of those breadcrumbs (Semmelbrösel) that you have left over from yesterday’s baguette or breakfast rolls (Semmel oder Brötchen). Commercially baked bread becomes stale through loss of moisture relatively quickly, so it's easy to turn yesterday's loaves into today's cookies.

Staying home for most parts of the day, home-schooling and weekend brunches have lead to considerable stacks of stale breads and rolls, which I like to turn into jars full of breadcrumbs that I use in various recipes. Breadcrumbs are one of my favorite kitchen staples and these lovely cookies are just one of the ways I make good use of yesterday's baked goods.





This is maybe a somewhat unusual cookie recipe where breadcrumbs replace part of the flour. The cookies have a bit of crunch, yet stay moist inside and are definitely not too sweet.

They are as delicious with ground almonds as they are with ground hazelnuts or walnuts or a mix of ground nuts. The breadcrumbs add a nice bit of crunch here, the molasses adds a bit of a caramel note and chewiness, the salt is for the balance of flavors and the cinnamon for a nice warm note (you can also add speculoos, gingerbread, apple pie spice here if you happen to have some left over). The dark chocolate I like to use is studded with whole hazelnuts. You can, of course, add regular dark chocolate (100g) and add whole toasted hazelnuts (50g) or use dark chocolate with almonds, or go with milk chocolate, if that’s what you have on hand, but remember that using different kinds of chocolate, will make these cookies more or less sweet.





The cookie dough will take no time to put together. And these cookies are wonderful on their own, but I think they would also be quite charming with a bowl of fresh seasonal fruits or berries.




Hänsel & Gretel Cookies
(yields 18 cookies)

Ingredients
  • 100g almond meal (finely ground almonds with skin or go with walnuts, hazelnuts or a mix thereof)
  • 80g breadcrumbs
  • 100g spelt flour (or go with AP/plain flour instead)
  • ½ tsp fine sea salt
  • ¾ tsp cinnamon (you can substitute other spice mixes including speculoos or gingerbread or apple pie)
  • 150g unsalted butter (you can substitute with salted butter but then omit the salt entirely or cut back to a pinch)
  • 120g superfine (baking) sugar (you can substitute with 60g white and 60g brown sugar ot go wwith all brown)
  • 8g pure vanilla sugar
  • 2 tsps molasses (I like to use ‚Rübenkraut‘ from a local manufacturer)
  • 1 egg (L), free-range or organic
  • 100g dark chocolate with hazelnuts (you can substitute 100g dark chocolate and 50g whole hazelnuts in total), chopped into chunks
  • 50g dark chocolate, chopped onto chunks
Preparation
  1. Put the almond meal and breadcrumbs in the food processor and whiz together with the flour, salt, and cinnamon to combine.
  2. With your stand or hand mixer beat together the butter, sugar and vanilla sugar until everything is thoroughly blended. Add the molasses and the egg and beat some more until the dough is smooth.
  3. Add the flour mixture to the butter mixture and whisk together.
  4. Add the chocolate chunks and mix briefly.
  5. Cover the bowl and let the cookie dough rest for about an hour in a cool place. If you want to bake the cookies a couple of hours later, make sure to cover the dough carefully with kitchen wrap and place the bowl in the refrigerator, then take the cookie dough out of the fridge about 30 minutes before you would like to bake the cookies.
  6. In the meantime, pre-heat your oven to 170°C (350°F).
  7. When the dough has had a chance to rest, form about 18 cookies by using an ice cream scoop or spoons, and lay the dough balls about 2.5cm (1in) apart on two parchment-lined baking sheet.
  8. Bake for about 12 to 13 minutes, until the edges have slightly browned and the cookies are a little bit firm. Let them rest on the baking sheet for a couple of minutes (to let the melted choclate settle), then remove them to a rack to continue cooling.
  9. When completely cool, store the cookies in an airtight container, they keep well for a few days. But they are best eaten the day they were made.




Hänsel & Gretel Kekse

Zutaten
(für 18 Kekse)
  • 100g Mandelmehl
  • 80g Semmelbrösel
  • 100g Dinkelmehl (Type 630)
  • ½ TL feines Salz
  • ¾ TL Ceylon Zimt
  • 150g Butter
  • 120g feinster Zucker
  • 8g Bourbon Vanille Zucker
  • 2 TL Rübenkraut (Zuckerrübensirup)
  • 1 Ei (L), Bio oder Freilandhaltung
  • 100g dunkle Schokolade mit Haselnüssen (oder Mandeln)
  • 50g dunkle Schokolade (oder 100g dunkle Schokolade und 50g Haselnüsse)
Herstellung
  1. Das Mandelmehl zusammen mit den Semmelbröseln, dem Mehl, Salz und Zimt in die Küchenmaschine (Multizerkleinerer) gegen und ordentlich durchmischen.
  2. Die Butter, den Zucker, Vanillezucker und den Zuckerrübensirup mit einem Handrührgerät verrühren, bis die Masse schön cremig ist.
  3. Anschließend das Mehlgemisch unter die Buttermasse rühren, bis ein glatter Teig entsteht.
  4. Dann die gehackte Schokolade (und Nüsse) unterheben, abdecken und zirka 1 Stunde kühl stellen.
  5. Den Ofen auf 170°C vorheizen.
  6. Danach wird der Teig mit zwei Teelöffeln in kleinen runden Portionen auf zwei mit Backpapier ausgelegte Bleche gegeben, dabei zirka 2.5cm Abstand lassen, denn die Cookies gehen beim Backen etwas auf.
  7. Auf mittlerer Schiene circa 12 bis 13 Minuten hellgelb backen. Das Blech aus dem Ofen nehmen und die Kekse ein paar Minuten auf dem Blech abkühlen lassen, dann direkt auf ein Gitter legen und ganz abkühlen lassen. Mit dem zweiten Blech gleich verfahren.
  8. Nach dem Abkühlen in eine luftdichte Dose geben. Luftdicht verschlossen halten sich die Kekse ein paar Tage. Am besten schmecken die Cookies jedoch ganz frisch. Tipp: Die Kekse sollten noch einen weichen Biss haben und sind nicht knusprig oder gar hart sein - achten Sie darauf, dass die Kekse nicht zu lange im Ofen sind, denn außerhalb des Ofens garen sie aufgrund der eigenen Hitze noch nach.




More recipes with leftovers and forgotten ingredients to follow.